The thing about hustling on passion projects is that all passion burns out after a while. I traveled with a friend back to Costa Rica this year to take a break and refocus — back to the mostly sunny beach town of Tamarindo on the Pacific Coast for two-weeks of what Theroux would probably call a “superior and safe holiday” but what my not-so-adventurous friends might call “exotic world travel.” In reality, it was a bit of both – the photo highlights of which are below.
I packed six pair of shoes (the downside of traveling with a wonderful, albeit packrat friend is that you bring way more than you need), but wore only my slip-on Seavees, which remain coated in a layer of fine sand — and probably could’ve gotten away with two pair of bathing suits, shorts and t-shirts for the entire time. Tamarindo isn’t off-the-grid, there’s Wifi in most places and it’s populated with a decent amount of expats and tourists. We mostly traveled within the northwestern province of Guanacaste – you could go to multiple playas all day and never be unsatisfied. We did make it out to Rincón de la Vieja, a national park and volcano about 2.5 hours northeast – for a hike, waterfall and natural hot springs.
If you’re adventure-seeking, there are loads of locals roaming the beaches offering bus trips to other parts of the country, to Nicaragua, to islands and other beaches for snorkeling, diving, zip-lining, surfing, paddleboarding — whatever. Mostly, I just wanted to enjoy the experience of living in Costa Rica, eating the typical plates (Noguis is my hands-down favorite, followed by Green Papaya, and La Bodega for breakfast), complaining about the roads, stopping on the side of the road for the corridas de toros in time to see a young improvisado get tossed from a bull, hearing howler monkeys groaning in the morning while they swing across the road on ropes stretched for exactly that purpose. And naturally, reading as much as possible, drinking copious amounts of Imperial and taking a break from the routine of digital life and daily creative.
I just discovered Paul Theroux for the first time (sorry, avid travel-readers) and devoured Dark Star Safari and The Old Patagonian Express on this trip, and found as well the literary travel sites Roads & Kingdoms and Nowhere, which are both fantastic and gave me plenty to indulge in now that I’m back in humid Tennessee waiting out the rain to get home, — so naturally, now I feel like I can write about traveling all day, the only caveat being — who has time and money for that? And if I did, would I enjoy it as much? Would I find the empanada shop tucked in the corner shopping center where I consider bingeing because they’re only 2000 colones each? Those existential questions typed out, here are a few moments from the break:
Rincón de la Vieja
There is no shortage of good days. It is good lives that are hard to come by. A life of good days lived in the senses is not enough. The life of sensation is the life of greed; it requires more and more. The life of the spirit requires less and less; time is ample and its passage sweet. Annie Dillard